Collar



June 17', 1924.

- 1,497,964 J. M. VAN HEUSEN I COLLAR Filed Jan. 19. 1923 s Sheets-Sheet1 avwmtoz 27;A M van Ill/fuse" June 17, 1924.

J. M. VAN HEUSEN COLLAR Filed Jan. 19 1923 I5 Sheets-Sheet 4'5 PatentedJune 17, 1324.

STATES JOHN M. VAN ,HEUSEN, or nosronjiliassncnusn'rrs.

COLLAR.

Application filed January 19, 1923. Serial No. 613,612.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN M. VAN HEUsnN, a citizen of the United States,and a resident of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State ofMassachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inCollars, of which the following is a specification.

The present invention relates to improve ments in collars and moreparticularly to collars made up of two or more pieces of heavy fabricsuch as, for example, multiple ply interwoven fabric, and the presentapplication is a continuation in part of my two cope-ridingapplications, Serial Nos. 517,020 and 517,021, both filed on November22,1921.

The binding of collars made of heavy fabric, such as multiple plyinterwoven fabric, and the securing together of two separate pieces ofsuch fabric, presents a special problem owing to the thickness andstifiness of the fabric. It is not feasible to bind the edges of thisfabric by turning the said edges twice on themselves and securing withstitches, since the thickness of the several layers of fabric whichresult from an edge formed in this manner, produces a bulge or welt onthe inside edge of the collar which is unsightly and which, when comingin contact with the wearers neck, has a tendency to chafe the same. Alsoin collars of the type commonly known as the wing collars it isessential that both sidesof the edge portion of the wings shall have asmooth and finished appearance, since both sides of the said edges aregenerally exposedto view and the thick and unsightly turned edge wouldprevent the collar from having a finished appearance.

One object of my invention, among others, is to provide a collar made ortwo or more pieces of fabric, said separate pieces being combinedtogether in such a manner as to present a neat and dressy appearance onboth the front and back surfaces of the collar blank so that thecollarmay be readily reversed: and to weave one ormore of the pieces offabriccomprising the finished collar in such a manner that the fabricat,

I is made of heavy composite fabric such as,

for example, multiple ply interwoven fabric,

That is, if the collar is of the folding or turn down type, the foldingor turn down portion of the collar is made of multiple ply interwovenfabric, and if desired, the neckband portion mayalso be made of the sameor similar material; if the collar is a stand-up collar with turn downwings I prefer to make both the stand-up portion of the collar and thewingportions of the collar of the same heavy composite material. Thebindingof the edges of the composite collar fabric is accomplished bythe provision of integral thin extensions on the edges ofthe heavyfabric itself. More particularly, in the case of multiple ply interwovenfabric, the fabric is provided with a divided edge,

which extends entirely or partially around the collar blank and whichcan be turned in and stitched to form the edge binding. Furthermore, thedivided edge is so woven that on either one side or on both sides of thefabric at the said divided edge portions the weave is, such as topresent substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portionof the collar. When the extensions forming the divided edge are turnedin and stitched, the fabric at the edge portion of the collar will, atleast on one side of the collar, or on both sides of theicollar, presentthe'same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric. 7 i

If the main portionof the collar blank is of multiple ply interwovenfabric, and if such a fabric isprovided with a bifurcated or dividededge of single ply fabric of or dinary weave extending therefrom, thesingle ply extensions forming the said "divided edge will present asomewhat different appearance from the main interwoven portion of thefabric, for the reason that them terweave of the multiple ply fabric isomitted in the single ply extensions. It willbe understood that inweavingthe multiple ply interwoven fabric, the pliesjare interwoven witheach other by threads common to ;two

threads appear on theuoutside of the interwoven fabric in addition tothe;threa-ds of the outer ply itself, while the single'ply extensions ofthe fabric present the appearance of a modified weave. 5

or more plies,-and ,that'these interweave J Accordin to one embodimentof the oresent invention, the fabric whichmakes up the turn-downportionof a collar of thefolde ing or turn down variety, is woven with,one or both of the extensionsv forming the diiie vided edge of a weavewhich presents the same or substantially the same appearance as the maininterwoven portion, so that, when such edges are turned in and stitchedthe collar will on one side or on both sides present a similarappearance both where the fabric is interwoven throughout and where thefabric is woven to form the edge binding. For example, the main portionof the said folding or turn-down portion may be woven of three plyfabric with the three plies interwoven, and the collar blank may lave abifurcated or divided edge made up of integral extensions, one of whichis likewise interwoven with a similar interweave to that of the maininterwoven portion. Then the thin extension or extensions thus woven areturned in and stitched, the edge portion of the collar formed therebywill present the same appearance as the rest of the collar.

The present invention will be described in detail in reference tocertain embodiments thereof which are ilh'istrated in the accompanyingdrawings in which,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a finished collar of the wing type;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the collar illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a plan View of the collar blank forming the stand-up portionof the collar illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. i is an enlarged sectional view taken on the line fhf of Fig.1;

F ig. 5 is an enlarged diagrannnatical view showing conventionally onesuitable weave of the collar fabric;

Fig. 6 is an enlarged diagrammatical view showin conventionally anothersuitable weave;

Fig. 7 is an ei'ilarged diagrammatical view showing conventionally amodification 'of the weave illustrated in Fig. 5; A

Fig. 8 is a plan view of a strip of fabric from which the stand=upportion of the collar shown in Fig. 1 may be cut; v

Fig. 9 is a plan view of a piece of fabric from which the wings of thecollar shown in Fig. 1 may be cut;

F 10 is a perspective View of the wing portion as cut from the fabric of9;

Fig. 11 is a perspective View of a wing showing the edges turned in andstitched;

Fig. 12 is an enlarged sectional view taken on the lin 12-l2 of Fig. 11;1

' Fig. 13 is a perspective view of a collar of the folding or turn-downvarietyembodying the present invention;

Fig. 14: is an'enlarged sectional view taken on the line 14-1 i of Fig.13;

Fig. 15 is a plan view of a strip of fabric from which the folding orturn-down portion of thecolla'r illustrated in Fig. 13 ma been, and rFig. 16 is an enlarged sectional view showthe main portion of the collarinterwoven,

that is, with the main portion made up of thethree ply interwoven fabricor the four ply interwoven fabric. The collar illus trated in Figs. 1 to12 inclusive, is made up of the main portion 1 and the wing por tions 2and is provided with the usual button holes 3. One suitable form ofweave is illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5. As illustrated in these figures,the fabric is a three ply fabric having three series of warp threads 5,interwoven with weft threads 6 to form three separate layers or plies,and two sets of interweave threads 7 and 8 for interweaving the middleply with the upper and lower plies respectively. The fabric is wovenwith a divided edge, one part of which is of two ply interwoven fabricin dicated at 9, and the other of single ply fabric 10. Owing to thepresence of the same inter-weave in the two ply extension 9 and in theinain three ply interwoven portion of the fabric, it will be evidentthat the extension 9 will present the same appearance as the maininterwoven portions, and will also have an increased degree of stiffnessas compared with the single ply extension. A suitable fabric from whichthe stand-up portion of the collar may be cut is illustrated in Fig.- 8.The fabric illustrated is woven with rectangular interwoven portions, orapproximately rectangular portions 11, one of which forms the greaterportion of the collar blank. The outer edges 17 of the fabric are wovenas divided edges while the portions 18 at the end of the interwovenportions, as well as the portions '20 between the main interwovenportions are woven tubular. One side of the tubular portion 18 and oneside of the divided edge 17 is of two ply interwoven fabric asillustrated at 9 in Figs. at and 5, while the other side of the tubularportions 18 and 20 and the divided edge 17 is of single ply fabric asillustrated at 10 in Figs. "1 and 5. By cutting out the stand-up portionof the collar to the shape illustrated in the dot and dash lines in Fig.8, it will be seen that the said stand-up portion has a divided edgeentirely around it. The divided edge is adapted to be turned in andstitched to form the edge binding of the collar, and the wingp'or'tionsof the collar may be inserted between the said divided edgeand secured by stitching or other suitable means. The collar having theedges of the stand-up portion thereof turned in and stitched and havingthe wing portions of the collar secured between the divided edge isillustrated in Figs. land 2 of the drawings.

Fig. 9 illustrates a section of fabric from which the wing portions ofthe collar may be cut. As shown in this figure, rectangular portions 13are separated on all four sides by tubular portions 19, giving a checkerwork appearance on the face of the fabric. The wings may be cut from thefabric as indicated by the dot and dash lines in the figure, and it willbe evident that a wing cut in this manner will be provided with adivided edge on'each of the two edges which are exposed to view in thefinished collar. Fig. 10 shows a wing portion as cut from the fabric of,Fig. 9, showing the divided edge 14 on the two exposed edges of the saidwing. Fig. 11 shows the wing with the edges let turned in and stitched.-

The fabric of which the wing portions is made may be, for example, athree ply in terwoven fabric as described above, with the integral.extension of Fig. 11, which forms one side of the divided edge, being ofa two ply interwoven fabric presenting the same appearance as the maininterwoven portion of the fabric.

It will thus be seen that the main portion of the collar is of three plyinterwoven fabric while the entire edge of the collar is provided withtwo lntegral extensions of the heavy fabric, one of which is also amultiple ply interwoven fabric of the same appearance as the maininterwoven portion.

Accordingly, although the collar may extend a short distance from themain interwoven portion, for example, at the parts indicated at 12 inFig. 3, yet these extensions will on one side of the collar have thesame appearance as the'main interwoven portion, and will have such adegree of stiffness due to the interweaving of one side of the fabricforming the extensions, that the collar will be free from a flimsyappearance at these portions.

In order to give the collar a greater degree of stiffness and also toprovide the edges with a weave that has the same appearance on bothsides of the collar so that both sides 'of the wings will present anappearance similar to that of the main interwoven portion of the fabric,the fabric may, for example, be woven as illustrated in Fig.

(3 oras illustrated in Fig. .7. Fig. 6 illus-.

trates a four ply interwoven fabric in which at the edge portions twoextensions of the main portion are formed, said extensions eachconsisting of a two ply interwoven fabric. By turning in the-edges of acollar blank cut from this fabric andsecuring them with stitches orother suitable means, the

collar will have the same appearance on both sides at its edges; In Fig.6 the same or similar parts are indicated by the same reference numeralsas in Fig.5, but with the letter a appended thereto. The wing portionsofthecollar as wellasthe standup portion will now present a highlypleasing and finished appearance on both sides, for the'rea'son that theweave of the fabric on both sides of the edge portion is similar to thatof the main portion of the collar. Referringncw to Fig. 7 of'thedrawings, it will be noted'that the fabric illustrated in this figure isa three ply interwoven fabric of similar construction to thatillustrated in F ig, 5. It will be noted, however, that in Fig. 7 theinterweave thread 8 which binds together the middle and lower. plies ofthe fabric is woven into the single ply layer 10 instead of being'wovenin the middle ply which forms part of the extension 9 as illustrated inFig. 5. It will be seen that the exposed surface of the extension 10,although said extension is not made of two interwoven plies of fabric,will present an appearance substantially the same as the appearance ofthe main interwoven portion of the collar. This is true because theinterweave thread 8 is woven into the single ply extension 10. i p

In constructing the wing collar above described of separate pieces orportions, i. e., by making the wing portions separate from 'thestand-upportions and securing them together, a clear and definite line of foldof the wing portions isobtained. It will be seen that the sea-m ofattachment between the wing portion and'the stand-up portion providesfold line along which the two portions will naturally tur By folding thewings along this line and creasing the folded edge with a hot iron orthe like, the wings will be caused to assume the correct position.

The collar illustrated in Figs. 13 to 16 inclusive is a collar of theturn-down or folding type, andis made up of a neckband portion 21 and afolding or turn-down portion 22. The neckband portion is provided withthe usual buttonholes 23. One suitable form of weave of the fabric whichforms the turn-down portion of the collar and also if desired theneckband portion, is illustrated in Fig. 5. The construction of thisfabric has been described in connection with the stand-up collar, and itwill be seen that this fabric may advantageously be used in makingfolding orturn-down collarsas well as collars of the stand up variety.

-A suitable fabric from which the turn down portion of the collar may becut 'is illust/rated in Fig. 15, This fabric shown in the figure iswoven with the rectangular. portions 3 of interwoven fabric and thetubular portions 7 and8 complctelyenclosing the]interwoven portions. Theinterwoven portions 3 may be made of suiiicient width so that twoturn-down collar portions may be cut therefrom. in Fig. 15 illustratethis feature. It will be The dot and dashlines' edge at the upper edgeof the neckband and secured in this position by stitches or othersuitable means. This construction is illustrated in Fig. 14. While Ihaveillustrated the neckband portion in Fig. 14: as comprise ing twoseparate layers of fabric which are placed together and stitched alongthe edges thereof, it will be understood that the neckband portion maybe made of multiply interwoven fabric or similar material having thedesired degree of thickness and stiffness. A construction of this sortis illustrated in Fig. 16. It will be noted that the neckband portion ofthe collar is constructed of multiple ply interwoven fabric and that theupper edge of the folding or turn-down portion is provided with adivided edge between which the neckband portion is inserted and secured.v

It will thus be seen that in the folding or turn-down collar, theconstruction of which is above described, the turn-down port-ionis madeof three ply interwoven fabric having at the three exposed edge portionsthereof two integral extensions of the fabric,

one which is also multiple ply interwoven fabric. Accordingly, althoughthe edge portions of the collar may extend a short distance from themain interwoven portion thereof, for example, at the parts indicated at18 in Fig. 15, yet these extensions will, on at least one side of thecollar, have the same appearance as the main interwoven portion and havesuch a degree of stifiness, due to the interweaving of one of theextensions fo'rming the divided edge, that the collar will be free froma flimsy appearance at these portions.

The turn down portion of the built-up collar above described may be cutfrom a fabric woven on broad looms in which fabric is woven ofsufficient width to form the turndown portions of a plurality ofcollars. This feature of the built-up collar is distinguished from theone piece collar described in my copending application Serial #609785,in which I prefer to weave the fabric on a special loom to give it acurvilinear contour. So also in the built-up collar' of the presentinvention the neckband portion may be made of any desired materialdepending on the fineness and quality of the collar which it is desiredto make, and at the same time the turn-down portion of the collar has aneat and dressy appearance comparable with that of a collar made of onepiece of multiple ply interwoven fabric. I

In order to make the collar reversible so that it may be worn whenfolded ,in either direction, both of the extensions of the divided edgemay be woven with a weave of the same appearance as the main interwovendown portion of a collar cut from this fabric and stitching them, thecollar will have the same appearance on both sides of the said turn-downportion. It will thus be seen that the-collar may be folded in eitherdirection with equal facility, and the same neatand dressy appearancewill be presented whichever way it is folded. If the fabric illustratedin Fig. 7 is used to form the turn-down portion of the collar, thecollar will also be reversible so far as the appearance of the edges isconcerned, but it will be obvious that the extension 10 will not have adegree of stiffness comparable with that of the extension 10 illustratedin Fig. 6. While I have illustrated the collar fabric as the three plyand four ply interwoven fabric, and with divided edges of the characterdescribed, yet it will be understood that the number of plies of fabricand the particular weave shown is intended to be illustrative ratherthan limiting, and that other similar fabrics may be used, provided adivided edge is woven in the fabric and is so woven that it presents onone side or on both sides substantially the same appearance as the mainportion of the fabric. I

The terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms ofdescription and not of limitation, and I have no intention in the usingof such terms and expressions ofexcluding any of the features shown anddescribed, or portions thereof, but recognize that various modificationsare possible within the scope of the invention claimed. I claim: 1. Acollar comprising a plurality of pieces of fabric, at least one of saidpieces bein of multiple ply interwoven fabric securely attached to theother portions of the collar and having onthe exposed edge portionsthereofv integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, thetwo parts .of which are turned in and stitched,-at least one of saidintegral extensions having interweave threads woven therein extending tothe edge of the collar and presenting a weave of substantially the sameappearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

2. A collar comprising a plurality of pieces of fabric, at least one ofsaid pieces being of multiple ply interwoven fabric securely attached tothe other portions of the collar and having on the exposed edge portionsthereof integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, thetwo parts of which are turned in and stitched, at least one of saidintegral extensions being woven of multiple ply interwoven fabricextending to the edge of the collar and presenting substantially thesame appearance as the main interwoven. portion of the fabric.

3. A collar comprising a plurality of pieces of fabric, at least one ofsaid pieces being of multiple ply interwoven fabric securely attached tothe other portions of the collar and having on the exposed edge portionsthereof integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, thetwo parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of said integralextensions having interweave threads woven therein and presentingsubstantially the same appearance as i the main interwoven portion ofthe fabric.

4. A collar comprising a plurality of pieces of fabric, at least one ofsaid pieces being of multiple-ply interwoven fabric securely attached tothe other portions of the collar and having on the exposed edge portionsthereof integral extensions of the fab ric forming a divided edge, thetwo parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of said integralextensions being woven of multiple ply interwoven fabric with a weavepresenting substantially the same appearance as the main interwovenportion of the fabric.

5. A stand-up collar with turn-down wings comprising a stand-up portion.and

wing portions made of multiple ply interwoven fabric, said portionsbeing made separately and secured together, the exposed edge portions ofthe stand-up portion and the wing portions being provided with integralpearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric. 7

6. A stand-up collar with turndown wings comprising a stand-up portionand wing portions made of multiple ply interwoven fabric, said portionsbein made separately and secured together, tlie exposed edge portions ofthe stand-up portion and the wing portions being provided with integralextensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, the two parts of whichare turned in and stitched, both of said integral extensions being wovenof multiple ply interwoven fabric with a weave presenting the sameappearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

7. A stand-up collar with turn-dowir wings comprising a stand-up portionand wing portions made of multiple ply interwoven fabric, the saidstand-up portion having thereon divided edges between which the wingportions are inserted and secured, both the wing portions and thestand-up portions having, at those portions thereof which are exposed toview in the finished collar when worn, integral extensions forming adivided edge, the two parts of which are turned inand stitched, at leastone of said integral extensions having interweave threads woven thereinextending to the edge of the collar and presenting a weave ofsubstantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of thefabric.

8. A stand-up collar with turn-down wings comprising a stand-up portionand wing portions made of multiple ply interwoven fabric, the saidstand-up portion havthereon divided edges between which the wingportions are inserted and secured, both the wing portions and thestandup portions having, at the edges thereof which are exposed to viewin the finished collar when worn, integral extensions forming a dividededge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of saidintegral extensions being woven of multiple ply interwoven fabric with aweave presenting the same appearance as the main interwoven portion ofthe fabric.

JOHN M. VAN HEUSEN.

